Bayonne is located in the South Western part of France near the Atlantic Coast. It is in the Pyrenees Atlantique and in the heart of the French Basque country. Even more so than in Biarritz, reminders of the Basque heritage were everywhere in Bayonne, street signs, business signs, directions, conversations heard on the street, everywhere oozed Basque. Txlzzchi, just kidding but that is really how it looked to me.
The Nive and the Adour Rivers come together in the center of Bayonne making it a very picturesque city on water. It is also about 5 minutes from the Atlantic Coast so it has a very coastal feel to it. The Nive divides Bayonne into Grand Bayonne and Petit Bayonne. There are five bridges between the two parts of the city. Indeed the Nive is more like a main street, with many restaurants, squares and the covered market on its quays or river banks. We ate one evening at a typical Basque restaurant right on the banks of the Nive. A wide variety of fish dishes with Espelette, a regional spicy mix like a more refined cayenne, can be ordered. In fact fish is the staple food of this regional, right after pork. Jambon de Bayonne is served all over France and western Europe and it does indeed come from here. We stuck to the fish however.
Grand Bayonne is the commercial and civic hub, with small pedestrian only streets packed with shops, the large cathedral and Hôtel de Ville. The Cathédrale Sainte-Marie is an imposing Gothic building, rising over the houses, glimpsed along the narrow streets. It was constructed in the 12th and 13th centuries. Nearby is the Château-Vieux, some of which dates back to the 12th century, where the governors of the city were based, including the English Black Prince. This side had a more French feel to it, although the Basque influence was always apparent.
Petit Bayonne is lively with Basque bars and restaurants more reminiscent of cities the other side of the Pyrenees, in Spain. There are two important museums here. The Musée Basque is an ethnographic museum of the entire Basque Country. It opened in 1922 but has been closed for a decade recently for refurbishment. It now has special exhibitions on Basque agriculture, seafaring and pelota, handicrafts and Basque history and way of life. The Musée Bonnat began with a large collection bequeathed by the local-born painter Léon Bonnat. The museum is one of the best galleries in south west France and has paintings by Degas, El Greco, Botticelli and Goya among others. At the back of Petit-Bayonne is the Château-Neuf, among the ramparts. Now an exhibition space, it was started by the newly-arrived French in 1460 to control the city. The walls nearby have been opened to visitors. They are important for plantlife now and Bayonne’s botanic gardens adjoin the walls on both sides of the Nive.
Bayonne has always been a refuge for persecuted people. During the Spanish Inquisition Jews fled Spain to Bayonne and also during Franco’s reign Spanish leftists fled to nearby cities in France like Toulouse and also Bayonne. It is a small city of about 40,000 people but it was a surprising treat to discover. There is no shortage of things to do and is highly worth visiting. Some things to do or interesting side notes are:
- Bull fighting is big here and there is still a yearly festival.
- Mayonnaise is said to have come from here but was misspelled and mispronounced over the years, it was originally called Bayonnaise. Now Bayonniase can be ordered but it is like mayonnaise with the spice Espelette in it.
- The Bayonet comes from here
- It is a stop on the Santiago de Compostela/St Jacques de Compostel pilgrimmage
- There is a Bayonne Ham Festival during Holy Week
- Stilts were originally made by Basque artisans here
- Basque pottery from this city is very known throughout Europe
Bayonne is a great place to visit. It is very different from many cities and villages in the Southwest of France. We highly recommend going there.
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I have heard that the people there are rather nasty to americans. True or false?
[...] France. If you are traveling in the area it is a must see city. Photos and to do lists are included.http://francetales.com/2008/05/31/bayonne-france/U.S. Treasury – Sanctions Program SummariesSanctions program and country summaries as well as [...]
Hello,
you can find program and more info of Bayonne in this website : http://www.paysbasque.net
True or false is hard to say. Do you mean in France or in Bayonne? I don’t find it true at all but I have limited experience in Bayonne. I live in France so I can speak about that, but then again I am learning French and don’t expect the world to cater to me so I am received rather well. They often want to ask about America and foreign policy which I am happy to discuss and the things that puzzle them puzzle me about the US too. Overall I’d have to say I don’t find an inappropriate level of anti-Americanism, it’s just the right amount
“I have heard that the people there are rather nasty to Americans. True or false?”
I’m from Bayonne, living in the USA now.
Well, what do you think of French Tourists who visit England/USA and who do not speak a word of English?
Few French People are able to hold a conversation with English-speaking people, that’s the main reason why some Frenchies are said to be harsh with foreigners.
The Foreigner is supposed to adapt to local culture/language.
My Grandfather’s family was from the Basque region; I believe Bayonne. Does anyone know specifically where the family (Garrus) was from. I believe there is a Provence de Garrus??
Don’t really know. What happens when you do some research? Is it all in French and you don’t understand? Believe it or not, the Mormons have the best genealogical network internationally, not just in the US. You could start there too. I was just discussing this with a French friend who found all of her family history in France ina book published by the Mormons, after not successfully finding it anywhere in France.
I have been lucky to visit Bayonne a few times and will say that it is one of the nicest places in France that I have had the good fortune to see. The people are nice and the food is phenomenal. I highly recommend going there, and if fortune smile on me again, I will return.
I went to Bayonne again this spring, it is really a great little city. The food is good and the city is lively.